In Season Now

What’s good right now · September to November

Autumn is when the kitchen comes back indoors. Apples, pears, plums and blackberries are at their best, squash, mushrooms and leeks take over from the salad bowl, and the oven earns its keep again. The recipes below are the first proper comfort food of the year — slow braises, pies and puddings, and one cake to bake now so it is ready for December.